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“We wanted to stay away from towns and cities and to trace the paths of Ancestral Puebloans and pioneers and prospectors. We wanted to walk 800 miles back into a different time and dimension.” — Troy Gillenwater Gil is hard-driving, with a knack for showmanship. Troy is quieter, stealthier. But they’re inseparable, like the Mittens in Monument Valley, and in...

PHOTOGRAPHY

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Photographer: Gregory Gaunt

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In Depth

There were plenty of sensible reasons to not go backpacking in Hellsgate Wilderness. For starters, the name raised suspicions that it could be a Godforsaken place. And then there was the fact that hungry bears stressed by drought were trying to eat people. The Hellsgate Trailhead, just east of Payson, was closed last June after three separate incidents at the nearby Ponderosa Campground — a bear there had put its jaws around the heads of campers (all of whom survived) as they slept.

There was also the possibility of being swept away by a monsoon-induced flash flood. Or succumbing to heatstroke during a long, hard hike in triple-digit temperatures. The spare and discouraging description of the wilderness on the Tonto National Forest website only threw up more red flags: “While the hiker faces several moderate to steep climbs on the route to Hell’s Gate,” it cautioned, “the real challenge is getting back out.”
 

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Karen Pugliesi, writer Annette McGivney and McGivney’s son, Austin, hike out of the Hellsgate Wilderness along Hellsgate Trail 37. By Elias Butler

History, Nature & Culture

History

In 1929, Mary Adeline Norris Gray took to the sky over Phoenix at the invitation of local aviators. It was the 83-year-old’s first plane flight, but she wasn’t intimidated...

From left, Columbus and Mary Adeline Norris Gray, an unidentified servant and Mary Green are shown outside the Grays’ home in Phoenix. Courtesy Greater Arizona Collection, Arizona State University Library

Nature

Although river otters (Lontra canadensis) once were prevalent in Arizona’s waterways, trapping, pollution and habitat loss significantly reduced their populations. In the...

An adult river otter eyes its photographer from a rocky riverbank. By Bruce D. Taubert

Culture

EDITOR’S NOTE: For this month’s portfolio, we’ve combined the work of two of our most talented photographers: Scott Baxter, the artist behind the 100...

Casey Murph (left) and Jones Benally go riding on the HRY Ranch, west of Holbrook. | Scott Baxter

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